A new exhibition at the V&A in London explores the impact of one of fashion’s most influential couturiers. At the end of the second world war when austerity and hardship had been endured by many women Christian Dior arrived on the scene with his Corolle collection in February 1947. It was swiftly christened as the “New look” by American editrix Carmel Snow.
The “new look” epitomised an age of elegance and feminity. The designers name became synonymous with nipped in waists, voluptuous skirts, powdery scents and the dove grey walls of his showroom.
In my opinion, Dior really understood the female form and designed clothes that showed off this form to its best advantage. “Christian Dior, the designer of dreams” is the largest ever exhibition on the artistry of haute couture to be held in the UK. I went to see the Dior exhibition when it was held in Paris at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs in 2017. The V&A has curated this exhibition in a slightly different way with the addition of a section that looks at Dior in Britain. At the time rationing was still in place and although the war had ended life was still quite dreary.
Dior’s designs were enthusiastically embraced by the British aristocracy and the royal family. The dress above was worn by Princess Margaret on her 21st birthday. Cecil Beaton photographed her in the dress for her birthday portrait. I am currently watching The Crown on Netflix and they reproduce this beautifully embroidered dress for the scene when the actress Vanessa Kirby descends the stairs at Buckingham Palace.
The ateliers are the heart of Dior. It is in these workrooms that seamstresses or “Petites Mains” turn ideas into exquisite haute couture garments.
“The ballgown is your dream, and it must make you dream” Christian Dior 1954. His evening dresses and ballgowns draw on his love of historic costume. Throughout his life he loved designing clothes that would be worn at balls and fancy dress parties. Nowadays you can still see these gorgeous decorative gowns that are produced by the House of Dior worn by celebrated actresses at the Oscars and Cannes film festival.
Christian Dior spent his childhood in Normandy. His mother was an enthusiastic gardener and you will see this floral influence appear in many of the Dior designs.
The John Galliano period. A bit too theatrical for my taste. I prefer the simpler styles.
In the image above are some designs by Raf Simons (Dior 2012-2015).
The exhibition not only focusis on the life of Christian Dior, who sadly died in 1957 at the age of 52. but those who followed in his footsteps, from St. Laurent to Maria Grazia Chiuri.
If a Dior gown is beyond your budget you could always indulge in a nail polish or some costume jewellery.
I hope you have enjoyed this short tour of the Dior exhibition.
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very enjoyable!!! thanks.
Wonderful garments! I wore New Look dresses, (not Dior), and remember how beautiful they were. Many of the dresses worn on the red carpet these days are positively ugly; especially the ones on half-naked wearers. (Sorry!)
The late Forties: Those were the days. Wish I still had those garments. Still have some from the Fifties!
I agree I don't like the half-naked styles but there are still some elegant ones normally worn by the older actresses.
Some of these creations we still see, today. Imagine what a breath of fresh air they must have been for post WWII, and Princes Margaret's dress... Who has a waistline that tiny? Thank you for sharing. I'm coming to England in September for a garden tour and will be in London, but it sounds like this will have closed by then. I'm sure something else will be on the scene by then. Thanks for this look back, Brenda
Thanks for you comment Brenda. The fifties styles really suit my figure type so I am biased. I used to have a small waist and wore similar styles. sadly no longer
My mother had a tiny waist possibly because she was corseted from her early teens! I remember her New Look style dress in some chiffon-type material with large grey spots on a white background overlaying a stiffer underskirt. It a wide neckline with a white collar and a red patent leather belt to show of her 22 inch waist.The dress must have made a big impression on me because i was only 4 or 5 years old at the time!
Hi Chris
I too have similar memories of my mother wearing a New Look style dress. She looked gorgeous in it. I must have been a similar age to you about 5. I once had a 22-inch waist long gone!
I was fortunate enough to have seen the Dior exhibit at the Decorative Arts Museum in Paris. The exhibit was outstanding, but the crowds were insane! Looks like you had more wiggle room at the V&A.
Hi Sandra
I agree having seem both exhibitions I found the London one more relaxed and spacious.
My husband and I are visiting London the end of this month ( first trip to London! Can not wait!) the V&A is on my list already..will make sure to check out this exhibit. By the way....how is your weather? Do I need heavy winter clothes? Or transitional and layers? Already have several
Pairs of good, comfortable walking shoes. A friend who travels to London frequently tells me you ladies dress “wonderfully quirky”. Can not wait ❤️
Hi Cheryl
Thanks for your comment. The weather is impossible to predict we have had a week of lovely weather with lots of sunshine now it is back to normal with grey skies and quite cold. Layers are definitely the way to go and a light raincoat. The Uniqlo vests, jackets and coats are good because they are lightweight and pack well.
Really enjoyed this post. I'm going to the exhibition in July.
Thank you Josephine for this lovely tour.
I am showing this to my 33 year old daughter who loves this style. She shops estates sales near her and has found some great vintage pieces.
Lovely photos of his work - thank you :-)
What a wonderful exhibit. Such classic looks never go out of style. Thank you for sharing!